A tailor is a maker of men's outer garments or of women's garments which have similar characteristics such as coats, suits and riding-clothes. Originally the name was applied to someone who made any sort of clothes, but became restricted over time. In the 19th century in Britain the tailor trade passed predominantly into the hands of the Jewish community and sweating became rife in the industry resulting in tailoring being one of the four industries put under the trade boards when they were introduced into Great Britain and Ireland in 1910. Research Tailor
A valet is a domestic servant performing a general role as a man's personal attendant and also superintending the other servants, a lady employing a waiting-maid in a similar role. Within the hierarchy of domestic servants, the valet was almost at the top, receiving orders only directly from his master, dressing him, accompanying him on his journeys, being a confidant and generally 'right-hand man'. In her book 'Household Management', published in 1861, Mrs Beeton describes the duties of a valet as follows:
His day commences by seeing that his master's dressing-room is in order; that the housemaid has swept and dusted it properly; that the fire is lighted and burns cheerfully; and some time before his master is expected, he will do well to throw up the sash [open the window] to admit fresh air, closing it, however, in time to recover the temperature which he knows his master prefers. It is now his duty to place the body-linen on the horse before the fire, to be aired properly; to lay the trousers intended to be worn, carefully brushed and cleaned, on the back of his master's chair; while the coat and waistcoat, carefully brushed and folded, and the collar cleaned, are laid in their place ready to be put on when required. All the articles of the toilet should be in their places, the razors properly set and stropped, and hot water ready for use.
Gentlemen generally prefer performing the operation of shaving themselves, but a valet should be prepared to do it if required; and he should be a good hairdresser. Shaving over, he has to brush the hair, beard and moustache, where that appendage is encouraged, arranging the whole simply and gracefully, according to the age and style of the countenance. Every fortnight, or three weeks at the utmost, the hair should be cut, and the points of the whiskers trimmed as often as required. A good valet will now present the various articles of the toilet as they are wanted; afterwards, the body-linen. Neck-tie, which he will put on, if required, and, afterwards, waist-coat, coat, and boots, in suitable order, and carefully brushed and polished.
Having thus seen his master dressed, if he is about to go out, the valet will hand him his gloves, and hat, the latter well brushed on the outside with a soft brush, and wiped inside with a clean handkerchief, respectfully attend him to the door, and open it for him, and receive his last orders for the day.
He now proceeds to put everything in order in the dressing-room, cleans the combs and brushes, and brushes and folds up any clothes that may be left about the room, and puts them away in drawers.
Mrs Beeton goes on to describe how some gentlemen are indifferent to their clothes and appearance, and how it is the duty of the valet to select suitable clothes for his master and to check and ensure all clothes are clean, paying particular attention to collars which often become greasy and dirty. In addition, the valet liases with the tailor, perfumer and linen-draper.
The valet also dresses his master for dinner and any other occasion, and is awaiting his master's return to the house, ensuring that the master's drawing-room is properly ready with fire lit and candles prepared. Research Valet
The tailor bird is the popular name for any one of numerous species of small Asiatic and East Indian singing birds belonging to the genera Orthotomus, Prinia, and allied genera. They are noted for the skill with which they sew leaves together to form nests. The common Indian species are Orthotomus longicauda, which has the back, scapulars, and upper tail coverts yellowish green, and the under parts white; and the golden-headed tailor bird (Orthotomus coronatus), which has the top of the head golden yellow and the back and wings pale olive-green. Research Tailor Bird
Andrew Johnson was the seventeenth president of the USA from 1865 to 1869. He was born in 1808 at Raleigh, North Carolina and died in 1875. Apprenticed as a tailor at the age of ten, and with no formal education,
Andrew Johnson taught himself to read before moving with his mother and stepfather to Tennessee in 1826 and there opening his own tailor's shop. In 1827 he married Eliza McCardle, who being comparatively well educated taught him how to write and also arithmetic. He then turned to politics and before the age of 21 had organised a working man's party. Between 1835 and 1843 he served two terms in the Tennessee house of representatives and one in the state senate, joining the Democrats and became a popular champion of public education and the rights of mountaineers and small farmers, supporting slavery but rejecting the South's secession from the Union, and refusing to join the Confederacy leading to him being appointed military Governor of Tennessee by President Abraham Lincoln in 1862. Following Abraham Lincoln's assassination, Andrew Johnson became president. Research Andrew Johnson
Francesco Squarcione was an Italian painter. He was born in 1394 at Padua and died in 1474. He founded the Paduan school of painting. After working as a tailor and an embroiderer, he opened an academy for painters, and most of the paintings attributed to him were in fact painted by his pupils. Research Francesco Squarcione
Johann Agricola was a German theologian. He was born in 1492 at Eisleben and died in 1566. He was the son of a tailor at Eisleben, and was called, from his native city, master of Eisleben. One of the most active among the theologians who propagated the doctrines of Luther, in 1537, when professor in Wittenberg, he stirred up the Antinomian controversy with Luther and Melanchthon. He afterwards lived at Berlin, where he died in 1566, after a life of controversy. Besides his theological works he composed a work explaining the common German proverbs.
John Stow was an English historian. He was born in 1525 at London and died in 1605 of stone colic. The son of Thomas Stow, a tallowchandler, John Stow became a tailor at Aldgate but from about 1560 devoted himself to antiquarian research and book collecting. In 1569 he was reported to the authorities for posessing 38 dangerous works of superstition. His chief works include notable summaries of old English chronicles and a valuable survey he conducted of London between 1598 and 1603. Research John Stow
Lady Godiva was the wife of Leofric, the Earl of Mercia and Lord of Coventry who, in 1040, imposed certain exactions upon his tenants, which his lady besought him to remove. The Earl said he would remove them, but only if his wife rode naked through the town. This she duly did, and the earl kept his promise. According to legend, the entire towns folk staid indoors during the ride, except for a single tailor who looked through his windows as the lady passed. From the Taylor we get the expression of a peeping Tom, or more fully a peeping Tom of Coventry. Research Lady Godiva
Microsoft Chart is a very visual, high-end business-charting package that provides eight chart types in a total of 45 standard formats. Each format is pictured in a series of illustrated menus called the gallery so you see exactly how a chart type will look before you choose the format. The gallery shows examples of area, bar, column, high-low, line, mixed, pie, and scatter charts. Each chart type has five to eight standard formats from which to choose. Your data is immediately displayed in the format you have selected. You can even create a custom chart. If you find your data is not well- represented with the chosen chart type, it is easy to switch between formats until you find the one that best conveys the information you want to present. Because it is so easy to switch from one graph type to another, Microsoft Chart is excellent for finding the best fit between data and its graphic representation. Once you have found the appropriate format, you can tailor your chart to meet your precise needs.
Microsoft Chart lets you improve the clarity of a chart by changing its four components: axis, data, labels, or legend. Text can be tailored to your chart by varying the font, size, location, or amount of text. You can even draw an arrow from a note to the element of the chart to be noted. You also have full flexibility to change the chart as a whole. For example, you can change size, colours, pattern, position, or border. As you modify, move, size, position, colour, and shade elements, you can watch the changes on the screen. To make working even simpler, the program offers automatic scaling, spacing, and centering for all elements of the chart.
Microsoft Chart offers a hotlink between your chart and a spreadsheet file, so you can set the charts to automatically update when data in the originating program changes.
Microsoft Chart also has an editor for inputting and correcting data from the keyboard. Research Microsoft Chart
Abbreviations
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